Horse Watch
Thousands of pounds worth of horse related equipment is stolen every year. There is a huge market in second hand tack and this encourages thieves to steal the property to get a quick cash return for their troubles.
The tack room and other outbuildings often have poor security standards. This may seem surprising when you consider that the average value of a saddle is around £1,000, or considerably more if it is handmade or made to measure.
Most saddles have their own unique manufacturer’s number but these are rarely recorded by the owner. If saddles and other ancillary equipment are not marked then identifying them is virtually impossible.
Our crime prevention advice can easily, and often cheaply, be used to deter would-be tack thieves.
Yard & Paddock Security
In the majority of cases where animals have been stolen or attacked, the crime was possible because of poor perimeter security.
As with any form of site security, you should start with the perimeter and work your way towards the centre. This is especially relevant with horse crime because it is the safety of the animal which is of paramount importance. The following points should be considered:
Fencing
Fencing should be seen as the first line of defence. Three of four strands of wire may be enough to stop the animal escaping but it would only take three snips with wire cutters to create an exit wide enough to remove your horse.
The same fence but with sheep netting makes creating the same opening a different proposition. A well made post and rail fence is even better and a fence which incorporates a thick prickly hedge is the ideal.
Gates
Gates are often the weakest part of the perimeter and need careful consideration (field gates themselves are valuable and often stolen). The metal variety is more secure.
Gate posts should be securely cemented into the ground. Gate hinges need to have the tops burred over or welded to prevent the gate being lifted off. The gate should be kept padlocked at all times.
A good heavy duty chain (motorcycle security chains can be useful) and the best quality, close shackled padlocks (to resist bolt croppers) should be used.
Alarm
Alarm equipment designed for the countryside is available and can increase perimeter security. It is particularly useful for gateways, gaps between buildings and paths.
Stable Yard
Stables, tack rooms and outbuildings make up the average stable yard that the rural criminal will target. They are targeted because they are often sited in fairly remote locations and are frequently left unattended for long periods.
Most of the above points regarding perimeter security can also be used to the yard. The yard will ideally have its own perimeter protection, including locked gates. Preventing unauthorised people easily entering and leaving a yard will go a long way towards preventing theft or damage.
Stable & Tack Room Security
Stables and/or tack rooms are commonly built of wood, often only a little more robust than a large garden shed. This is a crucial factor to consider when it comes to its security.
Rarely does a brick built stable block get broken into, whereas wooden ones are regularly entered through doors, windows, walls and occasionally even the roof. This does not have to be the case. The following points may prevent it from happening:
Walls
The walls and roof of a wooden stable and the tack room in particular can be reinforced by adding a lining a weld mesh or steel reinforcing grid (as used to reinforce cement floors) to the inside.
The lining, in addition to being attached to the walls and roof, should be welded or wired together to form an internal cage. If necessary the mesh can be hidden beneath internal wall cladding. This is surprisingly easy to do and will considerably add to the security of the building.
Windows
Windows should be kept to a minimum, particularly in the tack room where, if possible, have no windows at all. Where windows are necessary, the glazing should be of a polycarbonate material or laminated glass. Consideration should be given to fitting grills or bars as added protection.
Doors
Doors are the most common entry point into a tack room for the criminal. This is because they are usually secured with poor quality padlocks and a hasp and staple (also known as a pad bar) which is simply screwed into the woodwork and relatively easy to remove.
Ideally the tack room door will be robust enough (a minimum of 44mm thick) to accommodate a five lever mortise lock. When buying a mortise lock always choose one which carries the British Standard 3621 or look for the ‘kite mark’. Aim to have two locks, fitted equal distances from top and bottom.
Padlock Use
Where padlocks are used they should be closed shackle type. This is to prevent bolt cropping and they should also be used with a security grade pad bar. This should be attached using long bolts, not wood screws. The bolts need to go through a metal backing plate on the inside of the door and wall.
If the door is outward opening the hinges may be exposed and open to attack. Where this is the case hinge bolts need to be fitted next to each hinge. This is a device designed to stop the door being forced open by removing or damaging the hinges and forcing the door out of the frame on that side.
Remember that any door is only as strong as the frame it is fitted into. You might have to reinforce the frame before you improve the locks. If this is the case, visit a police station and speak to a crime reduction officer or your local locksmith.
Alarms & Lighting
Where possible make full use of modern electronic security aids. Modern alarm systems are reasonably priced – particularly when you compare it with the value of the property it is protecting – they are simple to use, reliable and a proven deterrent against crime.
Alarms
Alarm systems are used in two ways. The first and cheapest is to use what is called a bells only system, which when activated makes a loud noise in and around the premises to be protected. This often includes flashing lights as well as the sound and relies on the criminal being frightened away by the noise and the fact that anyone hearing it will call the police. In most cases, providing there is someone living within earshot, this is an effective deterrent.
Unfortunately stables are often in remote areas and it is obvious that the alarm will not be heard. Under these circumstances the second kind of alarm should be installed. This is a called remotely monitored system. It is similar to the one described above but is linked to a telephone, mobile phone or radio to a professionally run monitoring station who respond by calling the police should it activate. Due to the costs involved in providing the link to the monitoring station and the annual cost of the monitoring, it is a more expensive option.
There are also do-it-yourself systems available. Some of these can be programmed to transmit an alarm call to designated telephone numbers through a concealed mobile phone and battery. Such systems can be invaluable on sites with no mains power or telephone line.
A trip to a local security specialist or even a home furnishing store will reveal a whole range of equipment. When buying alarm equipment you should ensure that it meets the relevant British Standard BS4737 for professionally installed systems of BS6707 for DIY systems.
Lighting
While security lighting will not have the same deterrent value of an alarm system it is still a valuable aid to security and will certainly send some would-be thieves elsewhere. On the other hand activations from animals and birds must be expected.
A good lighting system will be made up of powerful halogen lighting units which are activated by a Passive Infrared Detectors (PIR) when movement is detected within the target area. The lights will stay on for a predetermined time before resetting. A photo electric cell prevents the lights activating during daylight. In addition, it is sometimes possible to connect the PIRs to a bell or buzzer which can act as a deterrent during daylight.
PIRs can be incorporated into existing external lighting to produce a similar, if not as startling effect. Security lighting normally requires mains power but other sources such as battery or solar power is available for more isolated sites.
Horse Security
Freeze-marking
This is a form of branding which permanently marks the animal with a unique code. Unlike the traditional hot brand, this method is far less traumatic for the animal and the end result is usually more visible. This is an excellent visible deterrent against theft and a sure method of identification should the animal be stolen. There are several companies who offer a freeze branding service.
Electronic Tagging
An electronically identifiable tag implanted into the animal by a vet. The tag can be read by scanning the animal with an electronic reader. Several companies offer this service and your local veterinary practice will be able to advise you where to go.
The negative aspect of this kind of tagging is that the reader used by one company will not detect a tag used by another company and the police will not have direct access to a reader.
Hoof Branding
This is a method of branding a postcode into the front of your horse’s hooves. This can act as a deterrent and a means of identification. It is easily carried out by your farrier two or three times a year.
Branding irons need to be tailor made. The negative side is that they are not always visible, the hooves invariably being covered in mud and as the hoof grows it needs re-branding.
Photographs and Records
Good photographs of a horse will always help to recover it if it is stolen. Photographs should be clear and show details of colour patterns and an idea of height. It may be necessary to keep more than one photograph.
A diagrammatic record of the animal should also be kept which will show details of relevant marks such as head, neck and other whorls, acquired marks and scars.
Tack Security
There are many products on the market that offer security for tack. This can be either physical marking such as post-coding, target hardening such as locking the saddle to its rack or by target removal, such as hiding or locking it out of sight.
Tack Marking
The simplest method is to have the tack post-coded. This involves stamping the postcode, along with the house number or initials of the name, into the leather. Metal items can be engraved with the same details. This can be done by arrangement with the local police station. It is also possible to have saddles electronically tagged but this can be problematic due to the amount of companies offering the service.
Saddle Locks
There are several devices available which physically lock the saddle to its rack in the tack room. These are a good deterrent, particularly if the tack room itself is secure. Additionally tack safes are available. These are made from galvanised steel and can be bolted to a wall or inside a horsebox.
Trailer/Horsebox Security
Wheel Clamps
Wheel clamps are a good cost effective way to secure your trailer when left overnight. They are widely available from a variety of motoring retailers or caravan outlets.
Tow Hitch Locks
These are another cost effective deterrent and again they are widely available.
Post Coding
Post coding the chassis and other metal parts of a horsebox or trailer is a simple and cheap method of identification. This can be done with the same stamping equipment that most police stations use to code pedal cycles.
Loaning Your Horse
Before you loan your horse to a complete stranger, or even someone you think you know well, there are a few sensible precautions you should take. These make sure that everything is clear and understood between the parties involved and if something does go wrong the details are in place to recover the situation.
In cases where equines are loaned on a ‘handshake’ agreement it can sometimes become almost impossible to even prove that the horse is yours. So, if you do not intend to give your horse away to never be seen again, please consider the following:
Identify the horse
All horses should have a passport to confirm their identity. The problem here is that you are required to give the passport to the loanee with the animal. Make sure that anyone can positively identify the horse by having it freeze branded. A microchip is a good confirmation but is not visible and can be difficult to check. Also, a passport does not prove ownership, only whether the animal is fit for human consumption.
Freeze brand companies will issue you with an owners pack and this can be taken as proof the horse is yours. Keep these documents yourself and keep them somewhere safe. It helps greatly if you have some good, clear current photographs of your horse, winter and summer, digitally stored if possible.
Keep a copy of the passport
You must supply the original copy of the passport with the horse so it can be travelled. The passport should also be available for inspection from the keeper so handing it over is usually unavoidable.
This does not prevent you from keeping a photocopy so you always have the information to hand.
Update Nation Equine Database (NED)
If you have loaned your horse then update the passport record on the National Equine Database. To do this, visit www.nedonline.co.uk. Make sure you have associated yourself with the horse to ‘lock’ the passport record to you. Then add a comment in the notes section of the user entered area.
This will allow anyone checking the passport, perhaps before they are about buy your horse, to see that it is out on loan and not for sale. ‘Currently on loan, not to be bought or sold’ is enough detail.
Sadly loaned equines can too easily be sold by unscrupulous people and some have even been lost to the meat trade.
Use a loan agreement
You really must have a formal, written loan agreement in place before you hand over your horse.
There is a BHS version at www.bhs.org.uk in the Welfare section or a Horse Trust copy at www.horsetrust.org.uk in the advice section.
Make sure it is fully completed and that you each keep a copy.
If you can have the agreement countersigned by a professional person such as a doctor lawyer, bank officer or company director rather than a close friend or family member.
This will make it more impartial and independent in any dispute. Some solicitors also specialise in equine law and offer help with drafting loan documents.
Keep records
Make sure you can always contact the person you loaned the horse to. Keep a record of their name, home address and all telephone numbers.
Note where they are going to keep the horse and if this is a livery yard then write down the yard owners details as well. Visit the yard/home before the horse leaves you both to inspect the premises and to confirm what you have been told really exists.
When the horse is collected record the registration numbers of all the vehicles involved, you can even take some photographs at the time so there is no doubt. A ‘souvenir’ photo of the loanee holding your horse may prove invaluable if it all goes horribly wrong in the future.
We all have trust that loans are the best solution at the time and the vast majority go well with no problems.
However, if you do find yourself in a position where your horse has been moved, sold or will not be returned to you the effort of the preparation described above may make the difference between proof of ownership and a long drawn out dispute.
Contact Points
Dumfries and Galloway Constabulary
Crime Prevention Officers
Ask for officer who covers your area
Contact us
Dumfries and Galloway HorseWatch
Mona Parr
Dalvaddie
Halleaths
Lockerbie
DG11 1LS
Email: Mparr2001@aol.com
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